Five Steps to Handling Difficult Retrieves Using A Dog Training Whistle

Mar 23, 2020

Watching a dog work is one of the most exciting parts of the hunt. Whether it's a fast day and you've limited out within 30 minutes, or maybe it's a slow day, and you only get one chance, it is all worth it when you get to watch your dog pick the retrieve.

A great marking dog is always a joy to work with and to watch work.

But...

There's nothing quite like watching a dog work with its handler to pick a LONG blind retrieve.

It often happens both in the duck blind and on upland hunts.

A few birds go down quickly, and then the last bird gets winged and glides WAY out there.

Then the question is posed: "Hey, you think your dog can get that retrieve way out there?! That one might be gone!" 

"Watch this!" -Dog and Handler

Everyone becomes quiet as the handler and dog step up to pick the bird. 

The handler lines the dog and then...

"BACK!"

The dog explodes from the side of his handler without hesitation. 

40 yards...

50 yards...

70, 90, 100...

150 yards and he's still going then comes the high pitch dog whistle... "PEEEEEPPPPP!"

The dog turns, sits, and gives its FULL attention to the handler. 

The handler gives one swift angle back to the left and then the dog is back at it...

50 yards later, he picks the bird and starts his journey back to the handler.

It is astounding to watch that take place, and it is even more rewarding to be the one doing it.

But it doesn't always go that way. Let's rewind to the beginning of the retrieve and see how it could have gone...

The handler lines the dog and then...

"BACK!"

The dog explodes from the side of his handler without hesitation. 

50 yards...

70, 90, 100...

150 yards and he's still going then... "PEEEEEPPPPP!"

The dog keeps going...

"PEEEEEEEEPPPPPP!!! PEEEEEEPPPP!!!"

200 yards... "PEEEEPPPPP!!!!"

Then the dog finally stops.

Feeling stressed, the handler gives a left-hand signal, but...

The dog goes to the right! "PEEEEEPPP! PEEEEEPPPP!"

You and I both know that is a total disaster.

Have you experienced this first hand? It's always tough when this happens. Knowing how to use a dog whistle in your training is essential for success in the field. Training your dog with the whistle is simple when you follow these steps.

-Step 1: Get it right without the whistle first

When you teach your dog a new skill, it is vital to start simple. The simpler the start, the better the training will go.

The very first step for developing a dog that stops on the whistle consistently is to have your dog sit at heel. 

Here's what it needs to look like...

You can start with the verbal command to sit. When you are heeling, and then you stop, your dog should also stop and sit immediately. 

Make sure that your dog can do this first. Practice it until your dog sits every time you stop.

You can vary the number of times you stop, and you can also continually change the pace at which you walk. This will keep your dog engaged and focused on you. 

-Step 2: Add the whistle at heel

Step 2 will be even easier than step 1. If you've completed step 1 right, all you have to do is add the whistle in.

As you are heeling along and then you stop, your dog will be conditioned to sit because of step 1.

Here's what to do next...

As your dog begins to sit, all you have to do is blow a short PEEP on the whistle.

You will need to repeat this over a period of time for your dog to learn that the whistle means to sit. 

The main thing here is to repeat this over and over until it becomes something natural that your dog does. 

Once your dog is very consistent at sitting to the whistle at heel, you can move on to step 3. 

-Step 3: Start to branch out

Now that your dog will stop to the whistle at heel, it's time to start working on getting them to stop when they are away from you. 

I like to release my dog and let them "go play." After the dog has played for a minute or two, normally, they start to come back closer to me. Then, when I have the dog coming my way, I will blow the whistle and hold my dominant hand out like I am telling the dog to stop.

Sometimes the dog stops and looks immediately, and other times the dog comes all the way back before it stops and sits. 

When the dog is successful, I like to toss a tennis ball as a reward. When they fail, I try again.

When the dog comes all the way back and sits at your feet, simply take a few steps back and reinforce the command sit. Generally, after a few tries at this, the dog will pick up on it and then will start sitting right when you blow the whistle (even if they are a few yards away.)

Keep in mind that you will want to let your dog become fluent at this before moving on to step 4. If you missed our blog post on the phases of learning and what fluent means, check it out here.  You will also want to stretch out the distance that your dog can stop to roughly twenty yards. 

When your dog will consistently stop every time you blow the whistle, and they will do that out to 15 or 20 yards, you can then move on to step 4.

Steps 1-3 have been about developing the right whistle work foundation. Steps 4 and 5 show you how to build off of that foundation and begin advancing to the next level.

*Disclaimer* You will notice that when I cover steps 4 and 5, I will mention casting your dog back which means to give them a back hand-signal. One thing that is evident here is that there are a ton of moving parts that start working together. Whistle training is one of those very important parts.

It's like an engine. All the right parts have to be bolted together for it to work correctly. 

With all of that said, if you plan to move on to steps 4 and 5, it is essential that your dog is ready for it. Your dog will need to be able to line correctly, mark properly, and be very obedient.

If you and your dog aren't quite there yet, don't worry. Keep working on steps 1-3 while you work on the rest of your dog's foundation.

The first three steps were all about laying a whistle-stop foundation. The next steps build off of that foundation and combine the whistle with the retrieve for a crisp stop.

Are you ready? Let's roll right into number 4.

-Step 4: Combine the whistle and the retrieve on the way back

Now that you and your dog can work together on whistle-stop, let's teach your dog how to stop to the whistle with a bumper involved. 

At this point, it would most likely be too much temptation if you toss a mark and then expect your dog to stop.

Here's what we will do instead...

With your dog at heel, walk out about 30 yards, drop the bumper at a specific point and then turn into your dog as you begin walking back. The goal is to have them continue to stay at the heel position as you turn to make your way back. 

As you are heeling your dog back, stop and blow the high pitch dog whistle at about 15 yards. The dog should sit at heel upon the whistle peep. Next, leave your dog in the sit position and walk the next 15 yards by yourself.

Turn and face your dog. Recall your dog to you. When your dog runs 5 yards closer, go ahead and blow the whistle and hold out your hand. If all goes well, your dog should stop and then sit.

When they sit, reward them by giving them a cast back and let them pick the retrieve.

If your dog fails to sit on the whistle command, fall back and keep repeating Step 3.

As with all the other steps, perform step 4 in different terrains, at different distances, and repeat it to the point that your dog could do it with its eyes closed.

-Step 5: Combine the whistle on the way out

Now it's time for the moment you've been waiting for and a massive step toward a dog that stops crisply to the whistle. Step 5 is where we will have the dog stop on the whistle while they are mid-sprint towards a retrieve.

At this point, your dog needs to be able to complete step 4 in about 3 or 4 different places and out to 30 or 40 yards. If you can do that, you should be ready to go.

You will start small, and then you can work your way out. Walkout about 30 yards with your dog at heel. Then, toss a bumper a few feet in front of you and your dog and turn and go back in a straight line. Line your dog up toward the bumper and send them.

After your dog has run about eight to ten yards, go ahead and blow the whistle. If your dog stops, pause for a moment and then give them a back cast. Let them pick the retrieve as their reward. 

As with step 4, you will want to repeat this drill at multiple distances and in various terrains for your dog to become proficient at the whistle stop command. 

Start small and take small steps as you make the drills more difficult. Over time, your dog will be able to stop to the whistle at whatever distance you want.

One thing to consider is don't repeat this so much that your dog pops in anticipation of you stopping them on the way out. Too many repetitions in a row can develop the habit of anticipating your whistle. Once you get them compliant to whistle-stop, be sure and allow them to complete the retrieve more often than you stop them.

Concluding thoughts...

If you follow the five steps in this blog post, you will be well on your way to having a dog that stops crisply and quickly on the whistle. You now know how to use a dog whistle to nail those difficult retrieves.

Here are a couple of things to keep in mind as you work through these steps...

  1. Take it slow, and take your time: For you to be as successful as you can be, you need to be methodical in your approach. Don't rush it, and focus on building trust as a bond between you and your retriever.
  2. If at any point your dog fails, always fall back to the previous step. Don't try to force something when your dog isn't ready. You can still fall back to an earlier step for a few days and then try again.

Have you enjoyed this whistle work post?

If so, you will love our videos to help you train your retriever. You can check them out at https://www.cornerstonegundogacademy.com. Training your dog is extremely rewarding.

BuildFromHere,

Joshua Parvin

P.S. I love the Acme Whistle in our CGA Store. It is a powerful training tool and one of the best dog whistles. Your dog can hear the whistle from up to 400 yards away.

 

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